Table top design

[ironbrigade]

I am starting to construct my table top board to fight on.

I don't have the financial means to create boards for specific battles so i was thinking I would make one board. I want to set up permanent hills at opposite corners of the board big enough to hold artillery and such. Then i thought I would cover everything with this really cool green fabric I found that makes good grass.

Next I want to build roads, rivers, small tree groves, palisades, buildings and ridges that can be palced on the board and moved. I first found this idea in LOTR warhammer. Thus I could create a board to fit armies from most historical periods and it wouldn't always be the same. I wouldn't be able to simulate actual battles but that doesn't bother me.

Does this sound like it might work out as a decent idea?

[Captain Blicero]

Ironbrigade,
Perhaps you could create a "modular" terrain board. Use .5 inch foam insulation or carpet tiles or matte board etc... cut into 1 foot square sections ( or smaller.) Ensure that all features leave the boards at the same area...IE road sections/rivers exit the middle of the tile and you can create versitile battefields. There is a wealth of information on the ole internet about such endevours. Unfortunatley my wife will not allow me to create a permanent wargame table in the house so I am stuck with ground cloth, foam hills, unfixed trees houses etc...Hmmm, perhaps I should point out that the boxes of terrain take up as much room as a table might...

[Valion]

I'm thinking about something like a diorama / gamingtable compromise every now and then, too. Your idea sounds nice !

I have some sites I check out on a regular base, and maybe they are beneficial for you as well !?

First of all, you might want to check out some videos of the following guy:
Steve Delaney, aka The Kamloopian.
http://www.youtube.com/user/thekamloopian
He did a whole lot of cool videos on terrain making, tools, and personal stuff.

If you have time left - which you shouldn't - you can even take a look at this site, too:
http://www.youtube.com/user/thebige61
Evert also did some videos on terrain carving. There's a playlist of about 10 videos. The first few are interesting, then after part 2 or 3 you might want to skip to 7, when he's getting into flocking and painting the terrain.

Still not bored ?
Then you can continue on to the following two sites, each having a real good gallery:
http://www.one-ring.co.uk/index.php
(English)
http://gidian-gelaende.de/
(German, "Galerie" means.. Well, okay, and BVB means WIP)

A hint: Use old CDs and DVDs for the modular elements like houses, or little slopes with trees and such alike. You'll need reliable bases, and recycling scratched "silver plates" is a cheap and ecoconscious.

Next, as my figures usually are based on iron flat washers, I sometimes enhance slopes and stairways and suchlike with hidden, coated magnetic adhesive tape. That way, the figures "stick" to it a bit better.

Hit me back once you start your work, and how about a WIP-diary ?

Hafffun !
Marc.

[Adam]

You forgot THE terrain site:

http://www.terragenesis.co.uk/

I started such a gaming board with modular squares in the WIP thread, but then I have moved to other ideas based on hexes etc, and now I'm thinking. I tie myself in knots trying to decide sometimes

[ironbrigade]

I don't have the financial resources to make a modular board. I ahve all the materials to make what I planned right now. thanks for the idea though for the future.

I like the idea about the cds and dvds...

[Adam]

Well mine cost about £25 for 12 foot by 6 foot, for all materials so I'd say for a modular board cost is negligible. But time is a big restraint. Took me ages carving all those rivers etc, I would only reccomend as a long term project, and don't do those dumbass modular boards like most 27mm folks do which are basically just a fixed table in 6 pieces? why? Flexibility is the key- definately what you plan will give you that, can be a bit billiard table flat, but you can always keep making extra hils and terrain pieces when time allows!

Keep us updated!

[ironbrigade]

Because I am currently in school, I don't have time for a job so money is not available. It took me about 6 months to get everything together. I want to create the basic board with a lot of things I can put on and move around because it will give me some versatility but not cost me anymore money.

[Adam]

Its a good plan, all games tables should be like this, modular or plain. There is no point having a table that has a river that can be in two positions and thats it, or always looks like 1942 if you an to play many different games types!

[ironbrigade]

I agree, which is why I plan to do things like make everything from modern European village buildings to 1st century AD huts....I have been collecting a lot of stuff.

I am also planning on having river sections, road sections, and pond sections that can be moved around and repositioned. I am going to make edges that will not look totally realistic but will make it look better than it would otherwise.

[Adam]

I started on exactly the same route as you before modular, in fact even after the switch much of the stuff is still usefull!

I have made some WW1 hex trenches that will sit on a flat table, but because of the hexes can be moved around to make all sorts of layouts, but they do now have hexed edges so they don't look too angular and rigid.

I'll post some pics when I next get my camera out, as its a good system to adopt fo rroads, rives and other linear features!

[Chasseur]

http://www.quindia.com/studiointro.htm

The above site is maintained by Clarence Harrison. I stumbled on his site by accident. He has an excellent article in his articles section on building a modular war gaming table. What I really like about it is that you can change up different combinations for set up. Each module is 2' X 4' with a basic table measuring 4' X 6' when put together. Each piece is relatively light in weight. Check it out.....Chasseur!

[rpardo]

Hi
Afeter many years of wargaming I did concluded that modular terrain is a very good approach but only in the theory. Therefore , I use a mix of modular tiles in combination with independent terrain features.
My modules are 40cm squares sculpted only with hills, plastered to give some texture and painted adequately. The rest of the scenery, rivers, roads, trees, buildings... , are not sculpted on the modules, but are individual items, placed over the terrain as desired.
See my web-site (my englsih is somewhat crude!
http://www.rafaelpardoalmudi.com/terrain.html

[Chasseur]

http://www.deepfriedhappymice.com/html/ht_game_mat.html

If you are looking for a portable and inexpensive way to do a gaming mat check out the link above.... the mat looks good and is easy to make!
Chasseur

[Bunkermeister]

A full time game table is a luxury that is quite wonderful. Several things to take into account. I have had a game table in my garage for about 20 years and have learned a few things about this topic.

Table must be sturdy. Large moose size gamers will lean on the table and will either shake it or even collapse it if you don't have a sturdy one. Mine was built by a friend who used to build stages for plays, so you can walk on it. Bumping a table and knocking over figures or terrain is very annoying.

The edge of the table should overhang the legs a bit. Check out most kitchen tables for example and you will see the legs are recessed. It is annoying to keep kicking the table legs.

The table top should be about 40 inches (one meter) high. Look at your kitchen counter, it is that tall because it is a good height to work from, your back will get sore if you have to lean over a low table for very long.

The table should be no more than six feet, six inches (two meters) in width. If you can't reach the center of the table, then the space is wasted and people will be more inclined to lean on the table.

There should be at least 40 inches (one meter) around the sides of the table of clear passage for people to get to the table. Narrower spaces are too cramped, people can't pass one another without getting too close.

Lighting for the center and all around the table is important too, but not specific to the table.

At least a carpet on the floor or better still, floor mats are a good idea to prevent fatigue for long periods spent standing at the table.

There is so much more, but this should get you started. Good luck.