Brilliant work with a dedication to detail.
I am looking forward to the completed article.
Best wishes,
Chris
Work in Progress
New Project
38 posts
• Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
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C M Dodson
- Posts: 2899
- Member since:
01 May 2015, 18:48
This week's efforts have been around painting the load bed and making a start on the fuel tank area and the ramp for the spare wheel.
This fits together like this.
The spare wheel is one I bought some years ago - the wheel hub will need to be painted, but that bolts onto the holder.
The fuel tank was made by my friend with the 3D printer.
And the ramp is Evergreen strip of various dimensions, held in the upright position by a brass wire stay.
Here it is again without the load bed.
And again with the ramp down.
I believe this was to make it easier to load and unload the spare wheel, but making it articulate like that took most of an afternoon. I think I could do it better, but I'm not sure I'm going to do it, once it's in place, you're going to really have to want to let it down.
You can see from these two pictures just how little room there is between the cab and the load bed. Once the cab is secured - still got to figure that one out yet; and the load bed is in place it will be pretty snug.
It doesn't look like a lot but it's taken a week to do all of this. Next week I begin to fix the cab together.
Thanks for looking in.
This fits together like this.
The spare wheel is one I bought some years ago - the wheel hub will need to be painted, but that bolts onto the holder.
The fuel tank was made by my friend with the 3D printer.
And the ramp is Evergreen strip of various dimensions, held in the upright position by a brass wire stay.
Here it is again without the load bed.
And again with the ramp down.
I believe this was to make it easier to load and unload the spare wheel, but making it articulate like that took most of an afternoon. I think I could do it better, but I'm not sure I'm going to do it, once it's in place, you're going to really have to want to let it down.
You can see from these two pictures just how little room there is between the cab and the load bed. Once the cab is secured - still got to figure that one out yet; and the load bed is in place it will be pretty snug.
It doesn't look like a lot but it's taken a week to do all of this. Next week I begin to fix the cab together.
Thanks for looking in.
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steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1528
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
So since my last post I have spent my time fitting, re-fitting and fettling the mud guards. (fettling is an old dialect word that means adjusting something until it looks right) It's taken a bit of work but they're done bar painting.
My aim in this project is NOT to make a 100% faithful and painstakingly accurate 1/16th scale model of a Bedford QL. (I'm not that good a model maker, my imaginations write cheques that my ability can't cash) It is, rather, to make a model that I can run and drive and that people will look at and say "Oooh! It's a QL!". So sometimes I have to say "soddit!" and go with the "it looks right" defence.
The mudguards are a good case in point. The pieces off the original 1/35th scale model have a bead detail that runs around the edge of the plate. I did some experiments using thin metal plate (from a Coke Zero can) to try to mould or bend or press it into shape. In the end I went back to styrene sheet and added a partial detail in the form of styrene rods on the back.
I also had to increase the width of the mud guards by 5mm because the original WPL tyres are so much wider than the scale Bedford ones.
And then there was getting them so that they all sat at the right angle, without fouling the tyres when the springs were under load. That's where the fettling came in. I made gauges to measure the angle at which they sit, the length of the brass stays and the placement of the holes in the mudguard and load bed.
They don't look too bad.
The next part is putting the cab together.
There are two issues - glueing the two halves together and securing it to the chassis. This picture shows the solutions to the first issue and part of the second.
The two plates in more detail - super glue works well, but I like to pin it as well.
How the pcb sits in the cab, the battery box will be over the top of it. It will not be easy to get at the connections - which are on the other side, but it is what it is - I don't want to change the wires for longer ones.
The white wire - lower left - is the rc antenna. The pcb will screw to the post through the hole in the board.
Thanks for looking in.
My aim in this project is NOT to make a 100% faithful and painstakingly accurate 1/16th scale model of a Bedford QL. (I'm not that good a model maker, my imaginations write cheques that my ability can't cash) It is, rather, to make a model that I can run and drive and that people will look at and say "Oooh! It's a QL!". So sometimes I have to say "soddit!" and go with the "it looks right" defence.
The mudguards are a good case in point. The pieces off the original 1/35th scale model have a bead detail that runs around the edge of the plate. I did some experiments using thin metal plate (from a Coke Zero can) to try to mould or bend or press it into shape. In the end I went back to styrene sheet and added a partial detail in the form of styrene rods on the back.
I also had to increase the width of the mud guards by 5mm because the original WPL tyres are so much wider than the scale Bedford ones.
And then there was getting them so that they all sat at the right angle, without fouling the tyres when the springs were under load. That's where the fettling came in. I made gauges to measure the angle at which they sit, the length of the brass stays and the placement of the holes in the mudguard and load bed.
They don't look too bad.
The next part is putting the cab together.
There are two issues - glueing the two halves together and securing it to the chassis. This picture shows the solutions to the first issue and part of the second.
The two plates in more detail - super glue works well, but I like to pin it as well.
How the pcb sits in the cab, the battery box will be over the top of it. It will not be easy to get at the connections - which are on the other side, but it is what it is - I don't want to change the wires for longer ones.
The white wire - lower left - is the rc antenna. The pcb will screw to the post through the hole in the board.
Thanks for looking in.
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steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1528
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
Two images of the cab interior now that I've built supports to brace the structure and lock the cab in place.
The two halves glued together but not yet pinned or filled.
Set in place on the chassis and screwed down.
It actually looks neater than I thought it would.
Next job is pinning the braces, filling the gaps, building new doors - the resin 3D printed ones are warped, and adjust the front so it all sits nicely.
Thanks for looking in.
The two halves glued together but not yet pinned or filled.
Set in place on the chassis and screwed down.
It actually looks neater than I thought it would.
Next job is pinning the braces, filling the gaps, building new doors - the resin 3D printed ones are warped, and adjust the front so it all sits nicely.
Thanks for looking in.
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steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1528
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
Over the weekend I built the doors.
The original printed doors were warped slightly,
and I wasn't sure that the warpage could be corrected in any way, so I used the 3d printed versions to cut 3 layers (per door), six in total. 2 in thicker styrene sheet, 2 in clear sheet, and 2 in thinner sheet, and layered them together thick (outer), clear (middle) and thin (inner) to make up the doors.
And then forgot to photograph them during the build.
However it now meant I could tape the cab together and start looking at how it would fit.
There are some issues with fit, as would be expected but on the whole it's better than I thought it would be - mainly that was due to the warped doors exacerbating it. So the next phase is to finish the doors and fit then.
The original printed doors were warped slightly,
and I wasn't sure that the warpage could be corrected in any way, so I used the 3d printed versions to cut 3 layers (per door), six in total. 2 in thicker styrene sheet, 2 in clear sheet, and 2 in thinner sheet, and layered them together thick (outer), clear (middle) and thin (inner) to make up the doors.
And then forgot to photograph them during the build.
However it now meant I could tape the cab together and start looking at how it would fit.
There are some issues with fit, as would be expected but on the whole it's better than I thought it would be - mainly that was due to the warped doors exacerbating it. So the next phase is to finish the doors and fit then.
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steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1528
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
Good day all, two pictures of the cab doors as they stand at the moment.
I've added panel details, hinges and door handles (though I think I can spend a little more time refining the shape of these).
The first picture shows the two doors side by side with one of the 3d printed doors modelled from the 1/35th scale kit. I was never happy with the handles as modelled and went back to photos of a restored vehicle to find the new versions.
Also this week I looked at some issues that need to be addressed - ordered a new drive shaft for the rear axle from Ali Express - can't say that my confidence is high on that one.
I ordered a connector cable for the lights. The existing cable connects to the pcb but when that is in place it is underneath the board, this means that I can't simply move the cab out of the way if I remove it for whatever reason. The new cable is a male-to-female which I can plug into the pcb and the current cable can plug into that. I can then disconnect the lights cable without flipping the pcb over.
The last issue was canvas for the tilt - when I get round to it.
Originally I thought I would have to butcher an old shirt, not a problem really, I have old shirts that are too big and some that are too small (I don't throw anything away) but then it occurred to me that model boat sail canvas would be a better option - so I'm looking at ordering some of that.
Thanks for looking in
I've added panel details, hinges and door handles (though I think I can spend a little more time refining the shape of these).
The first picture shows the two doors side by side with one of the 3d printed doors modelled from the 1/35th scale kit. I was never happy with the handles as modelled and went back to photos of a restored vehicle to find the new versions.
Also this week I looked at some issues that need to be addressed - ordered a new drive shaft for the rear axle from Ali Express - can't say that my confidence is high on that one.
I ordered a connector cable for the lights. The existing cable connects to the pcb but when that is in place it is underneath the board, this means that I can't simply move the cab out of the way if I remove it for whatever reason. The new cable is a male-to-female which I can plug into the pcb and the current cable can plug into that. I can then disconnect the lights cable without flipping the pcb over.
The last issue was canvas for the tilt - when I get round to it.
Originally I thought I would have to butcher an old shirt, not a problem really, I have old shirts that are too big and some that are too small (I don't throw anything away) but then it occurred to me that model boat sail canvas would be a better option - so I'm looking at ordering some of that.
Thanks for looking in
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steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1528
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
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Currently laying out sheet styrene for cutting four new blanks for the third version of the doors.
On Sunday I made a new pair as there were things I wasn't happy with about the 1st replacement pair, in particular marks on the glazing. They went together well enough but still needed some fettling - just a side note, fitting doors to any vehicle - real or model - requires fettling - adjusting for fit, to make sure that the gap all around the door etc, so on the model it's to be expected.
However, I sat and looked at them and once again there were glue marks on the doors and the curves of the window openings just weren't right. They were close but not close enough. The new doors were also a little too thick for the thresholds for the cab.
So this morning the plan is to
I think this will give a better result.
Pictures when they're done.
On Sunday I made a new pair as there were things I wasn't happy with about the 1st replacement pair, in particular marks on the glazing. They went together well enough but still needed some fettling - just a side note, fitting doors to any vehicle - real or model - requires fettling - adjusting for fit, to make sure that the gap all around the door etc, so on the model it's to be expected.
However, I sat and looked at them and once again there were glue marks on the doors and the curves of the window openings just weren't right. They were close but not close enough. The new doors were also a little too thick for the thresholds for the cab.
So this morning the plan is to
- * Cut just two blanks for each door, not three.
* Make the outside blank with curves for the door opening, but cut the inner door will be a square recessed cut.
* Use double side tape to fit the windows.
I think this will give a better result.
Pictures when they're done.
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steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1528
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
So, a busy morning - officially I was waiting for a delivery, but unofficially I was putting off my chores.
Okay, pictures.
I laid out the doors as previously discussed, opting to go with 2 pieces - an inner and an outer piece, the inner piece will accommodate the glazing and eliminate the need for glue. I was concentration on accuracy in the measurements, though I still managed to mess up the layout but of that later.
The four door pieces laid out and partly cut.
Inner door pieces cut. The window aperture has been cut bigger to take the glazing - I will line the inside of the door with double sided tape to hold the glazing in place.
The window aperture cut and finally, I'm happy with the curves!
The two sets of door pieces glued together and the quarter-light bar put in place.
Some of the door mouldings done, more to do,
Showing how the glazing sits in place, all taped together to stop bits getting lost.
The delivery I was waiting for? A longer drive shaft for the rear axle. It arrived but it was actually a set of four wheel hubs not a drive shaft at all. Good old Ali Express!
Okay, pictures.
I laid out the doors as previously discussed, opting to go with 2 pieces - an inner and an outer piece, the inner piece will accommodate the glazing and eliminate the need for glue. I was concentration on accuracy in the measurements, though I still managed to mess up the layout but of that later.
The four door pieces laid out and partly cut.
Inner door pieces cut. The window aperture has been cut bigger to take the glazing - I will line the inside of the door with double sided tape to hold the glazing in place.
The window aperture cut and finally, I'm happy with the curves!
The two sets of door pieces glued together and the quarter-light bar put in place.
Some of the door mouldings done, more to do,
Showing how the glazing sits in place, all taped together to stop bits getting lost.
The delivery I was waiting for? A longer drive shaft for the rear axle. It arrived but it was actually a set of four wheel hubs not a drive shaft at all. Good old Ali Express!
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steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1528
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
ModeratorProgress to date.
The doors have had the first coats of paint on their exterior surfaces, this has been rubbed down and they'll get a coat of gloss varnish next and then another coat of the matt Olive Drab.
This crash bar has been added to the front of the cab - it's possibly/probably a little too big, but I'm not changing it.
On things like this, where it's different from the 1/35th scale model; over 52,000 Bedford QLs were made during WW2, there's going to be some variation on details like this, either in manufacture or during maintenance and repair.
The mesh grill for the front of the engine - not fixed in place yet.
One of the issues with the cab was that on the second version - the two part version - the left mudguard didn't print properly (top part of image). To fix it I cut part of the mudguard from the original version (bottom part of image) and glued and pinned that in place.
It's not a good joint being just a butt joint even with brass pins in the halves, it's come apart twice already.
The answer? I've added liners to the wheel arches made out of steel (from a coke can) and glued into place. The acrylic filler is to stop the edges from peeling upwards. Hopefully it will support the joint and protect the wheel arch when it's in use.
Thankfully this is this getting to the point where I'm looking at assembling the cab, and fitting the roof.
Thanks for looking in.
The doors have had the first coats of paint on their exterior surfaces, this has been rubbed down and they'll get a coat of gloss varnish next and then another coat of the matt Olive Drab.
This crash bar has been added to the front of the cab - it's possibly/probably a little too big, but I'm not changing it.
On things like this, where it's different from the 1/35th scale model; over 52,000 Bedford QLs were made during WW2, there's going to be some variation on details like this, either in manufacture or during maintenance and repair.
The mesh grill for the front of the engine - not fixed in place yet.
One of the issues with the cab was that on the second version - the two part version - the left mudguard didn't print properly (top part of image). To fix it I cut part of the mudguard from the original version (bottom part of image) and glued and pinned that in place.
It's not a good joint being just a butt joint even with brass pins in the halves, it's come apart twice already.
The answer? I've added liners to the wheel arches made out of steel (from a coke can) and glued into place. The acrylic filler is to stop the edges from peeling upwards. Hopefully it will support the joint and protect the wheel arch when it's in use.
Thankfully this is this getting to the point where I'm looking at assembling the cab, and fitting the roof.
Thanks for looking in.
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steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1528
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
Not a lot to update this time.
I have been pottering about working on various bits - like how I'm going to do the hoops for the tilt (and get them all the same), layout the headlights and try and figure out how exactly I'm going to fit the glazing - the double-sided sticky tape idea isn't working very well, I've done a little painting but I've had a few other things on the go.
One of those things is some little tiny orcs - Wargames Atlantic 10mm Orc Horde. Yeah, a new shiny, but you all know how weak I am. I picked them up at the Phalanx show last month, as much as to see what they were about as anything. They're very nice - very small - and I'm not killing myself to finish them.
More when I get round to them.
I have been pottering about working on various bits - like how I'm going to do the hoops for the tilt (and get them all the same), layout the headlights and try and figure out how exactly I'm going to fit the glazing - the double-sided sticky tape idea isn't working very well, I've done a little painting but I've had a few other things on the go.
One of those things is some little tiny orcs - Wargames Atlantic 10mm Orc Horde. Yeah, a new shiny, but you all know how weak I am. I picked them up at the Phalanx show last month, as much as to see what they were about as anything. They're very nice - very small - and I'm not killing myself to finish them.
More when I get round to them.
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steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1528
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
This week I have been mainly pottering about – painting bits here and there, I fitted the lights and made a jig to form the upright hoops for the tilt. Getting these right is so important because there’s a fair bit of soldering – not one of my strong points – with the longitudinal members.
The hoops have to fit in sockets on the side of the load bed at the locations shown.
The first attempts are shown here -
Two days they took, two fiddly, bend-down-and-search-for-it-on-the-floor-time-after-time-after-time days!
And if anyone is not sure the comment “SIMPLES!” is ironic.
And they’re still not right, the finished product sticks out too far, by about a milimetre.
Now, I can either take the time to Dremel them down to size, or I can rethink the approach all together – and at the time of writing I’m leaning towards that.
And lo! And behold!
After writing the above and some digging about in the attic found some slightly over-sized tubing – 2mm (internal diameter), rather than 1.8mm. Why was this important? Because it gave me a bit more wiggle-room fitting it to the body work and still being able to get the uprights into the tube.
Glued the tubing to some L shaped strip, cut it to size and fitted a bottom to it – a lot less work.
Much happier with these
Thanks for looking in.
The hoops have to fit in sockets on the side of the load bed at the locations shown.
The first attempts are shown here -
Two days they took, two fiddly, bend-down-and-search-for-it-on-the-floor-time-after-time-after-time days!
And if anyone is not sure the comment “SIMPLES!” is ironic.
And they’re still not right, the finished product sticks out too far, by about a milimetre.
Now, I can either take the time to Dremel them down to size, or I can rethink the approach all together – and at the time of writing I’m leaning towards that.
And lo! And behold!
After writing the above and some digging about in the attic found some slightly over-sized tubing – 2mm (internal diameter), rather than 1.8mm. Why was this important? Because it gave me a bit more wiggle-room fitting it to the body work and still being able to get the uprights into the tube.
Glued the tubing to some L shaped strip, cut it to size and fitted a bottom to it – a lot less work.
Much happier with these
Thanks for looking in.
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steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1528
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
The sockets have been glued into place and the cross-wise hoops shaped and placed in the sockets.
These do look a bit flimsy, but the lengthways bars - when they're fitted - will stiffen it up and the canvas tilt, when it is in place and roped down, will keep it all secured.
A good morning's work, but I really need to tidy the working space.
These do look a bit flimsy, but the lengthways bars - when they're fitted - will stiffen it up and the canvas tilt, when it is in place and roped down, will keep it all secured.
A good morning's work, but I really need to tidy the working space.
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steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1528
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
Morning All!
So yesterday I sat down to give the dining room table a bit of a tidy-up.
It was going well, but then I got distracted.
But!
It was a good distraction and some good came out of it.
So the thing that has really been fighting me in this build has been the rear drive. After extending the wheel base, by moving the rear wheel assembly back 20mm the drive shaft was too short.
Initially I thought about cutting the existing drive shaft and extending it, but when I did it - it just felt like it wasn't going to work.
So next I ordered a metal drive shaft from Ali Express - about £5 inc postage, but only to find when it got here that they'd sent me four very nice carbon fibre wheel hub (not a drive shaft). Sadly I couldn't see a use for them and started the refund process. However, now I knew better what I was looking for, I found the same sort of thing on ebay and ordered one of them but this time for £9.
When that arrived I discovered that it was designed for a 5mm drive shaft from the gear box, and the WPL is 3mm.
Okay, ordered some adapters.
Meanwhile I took the wheels to the guy at my local model shop and asked him if he could get rid of them for me - I don't know any one in the local r/c car community - and told him to see if he could sell them for about £10 (on Ali Express they're £18). So if that works out - I got a refund for the initial purchase and the vendor said 'keep the wheels', so if I get a tenner for them it covers the cost of the drive shaft off ebay, and someone gets a set of carbon fibre wheels for cheap, and hopefully the chap in the shop makes a couple of quid on them.
The adapters arrived, I worked out how to fit them with shims so everything was snug and then discovered that the shaft was too big to fit the shaft out of the gear box - it was actually rubbing against the motor casing - and I was back to square one!
I was really p!ssed off at this point, and walked away from it for a day ...
... and then came yesterday and clearing up.
I had the dremel out with a cutting wheel, so I cut some brass tubing and cleaned it up, fitted it to the stub of the original drive shaft.
This isn't the one I have been working on ...
... but the blue line shows you where I cut the part.
This is the brass tube sitting on the stub, with a nylon spacer to sit in the tub, along with a load of superglue and baking soda, and eventually I'll put a pin through it as well.
Assembled. Initially the problem had been that the stub felt loose in the tube, after monkeying about with the other drive shaft I was switched on to the idea of using shim - metal spacers - so I added some shims around the stub to make it fit better.
More pinning needed, but much happier.
In place on the truck. Hopefully this will never get the sort of hammer that rock-crawlers get - hence why they have metal parts as after-sales/upgrade items, so this should do the job for just running it about.
Completing that made my morning.
I also moved on to assembling the cab.
Thanks for looking in.
So yesterday I sat down to give the dining room table a bit of a tidy-up.
It was going well, but then I got distracted.
But!
It was a good distraction and some good came out of it.
So the thing that has really been fighting me in this build has been the rear drive. After extending the wheel base, by moving the rear wheel assembly back 20mm the drive shaft was too short.
Initially I thought about cutting the existing drive shaft and extending it, but when I did it - it just felt like it wasn't going to work.
So next I ordered a metal drive shaft from Ali Express - about £5 inc postage, but only to find when it got here that they'd sent me four very nice carbon fibre wheel hub (not a drive shaft). Sadly I couldn't see a use for them and started the refund process. However, now I knew better what I was looking for, I found the same sort of thing on ebay and ordered one of them but this time for £9.
When that arrived I discovered that it was designed for a 5mm drive shaft from the gear box, and the WPL is 3mm.
Okay, ordered some adapters.
Meanwhile I took the wheels to the guy at my local model shop and asked him if he could get rid of them for me - I don't know any one in the local r/c car community - and told him to see if he could sell them for about £10 (on Ali Express they're £18). So if that works out - I got a refund for the initial purchase and the vendor said 'keep the wheels', so if I get a tenner for them it covers the cost of the drive shaft off ebay, and someone gets a set of carbon fibre wheels for cheap, and hopefully the chap in the shop makes a couple of quid on them.
The adapters arrived, I worked out how to fit them with shims so everything was snug and then discovered that the shaft was too big to fit the shaft out of the gear box - it was actually rubbing against the motor casing - and I was back to square one!
I was really p!ssed off at this point, and walked away from it for a day ...
... and then came yesterday and clearing up.
I had the dremel out with a cutting wheel, so I cut some brass tubing and cleaned it up, fitted it to the stub of the original drive shaft.
This isn't the one I have been working on ...
... but the blue line shows you where I cut the part.
This is the brass tube sitting on the stub, with a nylon spacer to sit in the tub, along with a load of superglue and baking soda, and eventually I'll put a pin through it as well.
Assembled. Initially the problem had been that the stub felt loose in the tube, after monkeying about with the other drive shaft I was switched on to the idea of using shim - metal spacers - so I added some shims around the stub to make it fit better.
More pinning needed, but much happier.
In place on the truck. Hopefully this will never get the sort of hammer that rock-crawlers get - hence why they have metal parts as after-sales/upgrade items, so this should do the job for just running it about.
Completing that made my morning.
I also moved on to assembling the cab.
Thanks for looking in.
-
steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1528
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
This week on Steve’s Bedford QL build!
The cab roof!
This thing has taken the best part of a week!
Mainly it’s been my own fault, in that I could have done it better, but in my own defence I did it this way because that was the way the cab was presented to me – to do a certain way.
So the plan was always to fit magnets to the cab and the cab roof so that I could access the interior when I need to but it will still be secure enough to take every day running.
Okay! If you look at this picture, you’ll see in the back upper corners of the cab, two blocks, nestling in the curve of the back plate.
Obviously designed to be where the magnets go, yes?
The issue was that there were no similarly obvious places to position the magnets on the inside of the roof.
SO, after a load of drilling, positioning, fixing in place, checking and rechecking polarity, a bucket of superglue, baking soda and yes, I freely admit it – a lot of swearing, we get to here -
It all lines up, clicks into place and holds very tight.
And with the cab front in place.
I will be honest when that clicked into place this morning, and all the reveals around the cab, the gaps etc were right, I was a happy man. A very happy man.
Still, if it was easy – we wouldn’t do it. Thanks for looking in.
The cab roof!
This thing has taken the best part of a week!
Mainly it’s been my own fault, in that I could have done it better, but in my own defence I did it this way because that was the way the cab was presented to me – to do a certain way.
So the plan was always to fit magnets to the cab and the cab roof so that I could access the interior when I need to but it will still be secure enough to take every day running.
Okay! If you look at this picture, you’ll see in the back upper corners of the cab, two blocks, nestling in the curve of the back plate.
Obviously designed to be where the magnets go, yes?
The issue was that there were no similarly obvious places to position the magnets on the inside of the roof.
SO, after a load of drilling, positioning, fixing in place, checking and rechecking polarity, a bucket of superglue, baking soda and yes, I freely admit it – a lot of swearing, we get to here -
It all lines up, clicks into place and holds very tight.
And with the cab front in place.
I will be honest when that clicked into place this morning, and all the reveals around the cab, the gaps etc were right, I was a happy man. A very happy man.
Still, if it was easy – we wouldn’t do it. Thanks for looking in.
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steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1528
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
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It's very interesting to follow the detailed process of manufacturing and assembling the different parts of the vehicle. Keep it up, Steve! 
Santi.
Santi.
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Santi Pérez
- Posts: 2587
- Member since:
28 Aug 2016, 19:42
Just a quick update - all work has stopped - temporarily.
My wife is starting her Astronomy course again soon and we share a working area. I also need to do some soldering. Now soldering isn't my strong point, I can do it, I'm just not confident in the doing of it. So I'm packing stuff up to move it up to the attic and I can curse and swear at it to my heart's content.
My wife is starting her Astronomy course again soon and we share a working area. I also need to do some soldering. Now soldering isn't my strong point, I can do it, I'm just not confident in the doing of it. So I'm packing stuff up to move it up to the attic and I can curse and swear at it to my heart's content.
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steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1528
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
38 posts
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