Brilliant work with a dedication to detail.
I am looking forward to the completed article.
Best wishes,
Chris
Work in Progress
New Project
31 posts
• Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
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C M Dodson
- Posts: 2831
- Member since:
01 May 2015, 18:48
This week's efforts have been around painting the load bed and making a start on the fuel tank area and the ramp for the spare wheel.
This fits together like this.
The spare wheel is one I bought some years ago - the wheel hub will need to be painted, but that bolts onto the holder.
The fuel tank was made by my friend with the 3D printer.
And the ramp is Evergreen strip of various dimensions, held in the upright position by a brass wire stay.
Here it is again without the load bed.
And again with the ramp down.
I believe this was to make it easier to load and unload the spare wheel, but making it articulate like that took most of an afternoon. I think I could do it better, but I'm not sure I'm going to do it, once it's in place, you're going to really have to want to let it down.
You can see from these two pictures just how little room there is between the cab and the load bed. Once the cab is secured - still got to figure that one out yet; and the load bed is in place it will be pretty snug.
It doesn't look like a lot but it's taken a week to do all of this. Next week I begin to fix the cab together.
Thanks for looking in.
This fits together like this.
The spare wheel is one I bought some years ago - the wheel hub will need to be painted, but that bolts onto the holder.
The fuel tank was made by my friend with the 3D printer.
And the ramp is Evergreen strip of various dimensions, held in the upright position by a brass wire stay.
Here it is again without the load bed.
And again with the ramp down.
I believe this was to make it easier to load and unload the spare wheel, but making it articulate like that took most of an afternoon. I think I could do it better, but I'm not sure I'm going to do it, once it's in place, you're going to really have to want to let it down.
You can see from these two pictures just how little room there is between the cab and the load bed. Once the cab is secured - still got to figure that one out yet; and the load bed is in place it will be pretty snug.
It doesn't look like a lot but it's taken a week to do all of this. Next week I begin to fix the cab together.
Thanks for looking in.
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steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1459
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
So since my last post I have spent my time fitting, re-fitting and fettling the mud guards. (fettling is an old dialect word that means adjusting something until it looks right) It's taken a bit of work but they're done bar painting.
My aim in this project is NOT to make a 100% faithful and painstakingly accurate 1/16th scale model of a Bedford QL. (I'm not that good a model maker, my imaginations write cheques that my ability can't cash) It is, rather, to make a model that I can run and drive and that people will look at and say "Oooh! It's a QL!". So sometimes I have to say "soddit!" and go with the "it looks right" defence.
The mudguards are a good case in point. The pieces off the original 1/35th scale model have a bead detail that runs around the edge of the plate. I did some experiments using thin metal plate (from a Coke Zero can) to try to mould or bend or press it into shape. In the end I went back to styrene sheet and added a partial detail in the form of styrene rods on the back.
I also had to increase the width of the mud guards by 5mm because the original WPL tyres are so much wider than the scale Bedford ones.
And then there was getting them so that they all sat at the right angle, without fouling the tyres when the springs were under load. That's where the fettling came in. I made gauges to measure the angle at which they sit, the length of the brass stays and the placement of the holes in the mudguard and load bed.
They don't look too bad.
The next part is putting the cab together.
There are two issues - glueing the two halves together and securing it to the chassis. This picture shows the solutions to the first issue and part of the second.
The two plates in more detail - super glue works well, but I like to pin it as well.
How the pcb sits in the cab, the battery box will be over the top of it. It will not be easy to get at the connections - which are on the other side, but it is what it is - I don't want to change the wires for longer ones.
The white wire - lower left - is the rc antenna. The pcb will screw to the post through the hole in the board.
Thanks for looking in.
My aim in this project is NOT to make a 100% faithful and painstakingly accurate 1/16th scale model of a Bedford QL. (I'm not that good a model maker, my imaginations write cheques that my ability can't cash) It is, rather, to make a model that I can run and drive and that people will look at and say "Oooh! It's a QL!". So sometimes I have to say "soddit!" and go with the "it looks right" defence.
The mudguards are a good case in point. The pieces off the original 1/35th scale model have a bead detail that runs around the edge of the plate. I did some experiments using thin metal plate (from a Coke Zero can) to try to mould or bend or press it into shape. In the end I went back to styrene sheet and added a partial detail in the form of styrene rods on the back.
I also had to increase the width of the mud guards by 5mm because the original WPL tyres are so much wider than the scale Bedford ones.
And then there was getting them so that they all sat at the right angle, without fouling the tyres when the springs were under load. That's where the fettling came in. I made gauges to measure the angle at which they sit, the length of the brass stays and the placement of the holes in the mudguard and load bed.
They don't look too bad.
The next part is putting the cab together.
There are two issues - glueing the two halves together and securing it to the chassis. This picture shows the solutions to the first issue and part of the second.
The two plates in more detail - super glue works well, but I like to pin it as well.
How the pcb sits in the cab, the battery box will be over the top of it. It will not be easy to get at the connections - which are on the other side, but it is what it is - I don't want to change the wires for longer ones.
The white wire - lower left - is the rc antenna. The pcb will screw to the post through the hole in the board.
Thanks for looking in.
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steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1459
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
Two images of the cab interior now that I've built supports to brace the structure and lock the cab in place.
The two halves glued together but not yet pinned or filled.
Set in place on the chassis and screwed down.
It actually looks neater than I thought it would.
Next job is pinning the braces, filling the gaps, building new doors - the resin 3D printed ones are warped, and adjust the front so it all sits nicely.
Thanks for looking in.
The two halves glued together but not yet pinned or filled.
Set in place on the chassis and screwed down.
It actually looks neater than I thought it would.
Next job is pinning the braces, filling the gaps, building new doors - the resin 3D printed ones are warped, and adjust the front so it all sits nicely.
Thanks for looking in.
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steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1459
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
Over the weekend I built the doors.
The original printed doors were warped slightly,
and I wasn't sure that the warpage could be corrected in any way, so I used the 3d printed versions to cut 3 layers (per door), six in total. 2 in thicker styrene sheet, 2 in clear sheet, and 2 in thinner sheet, and layered them together thick (outer), clear (middle) and thin (inner) to make up the doors.
And then forgot to photograph them during the build.
However it now meant I could tape the cab together and start looking at how it would fit.
There are some issues with fit, as would be expected but on the whole it's better than I thought it would be - mainly that was due to the warped doors exacerbating it. So the next phase is to finish the doors and fit then.
The original printed doors were warped slightly,
and I wasn't sure that the warpage could be corrected in any way, so I used the 3d printed versions to cut 3 layers (per door), six in total. 2 in thicker styrene sheet, 2 in clear sheet, and 2 in thinner sheet, and layered them together thick (outer), clear (middle) and thin (inner) to make up the doors.
And then forgot to photograph them during the build.
However it now meant I could tape the cab together and start looking at how it would fit.
There are some issues with fit, as would be expected but on the whole it's better than I thought it would be - mainly that was due to the warped doors exacerbating it. So the next phase is to finish the doors and fit then.
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steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1459
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
Good day all, two pictures of the cab doors as they stand at the moment.
I've added panel details, hinges and door handles (though I think I can spend a little more time refining the shape of these).
The first picture shows the two doors side by side with one of the 3d printed doors modelled from the 1/35th scale kit. I was never happy with the handles as modelled and went back to photos of a restored vehicle to find the new versions.
Also this week I looked at some issues that need to be addressed - ordered a new drive shaft for the rear axle from Ali Express - can't say that my confidence is high on that one.
I ordered a connector cable for the lights. The existing cable connects to the pcb but when that is in place it is underneath the board, this means that I can't simply move the cab out of the way if I remove it for whatever reason. The new cable is a male-to-female which I can plug into the pcb and the current cable can plug into that. I can then disconnect the lights cable without flipping the pcb over.
The last issue was canvas for the tilt - when I get round to it.
Originally I thought I would have to butcher an old shirt, not a problem really, I have old shirts that are too big and some that are too small (I don't throw anything away) but then it occurred to me that model boat sail canvas would be a better option - so I'm looking at ordering some of that.
Thanks for looking in
I've added panel details, hinges and door handles (though I think I can spend a little more time refining the shape of these).
The first picture shows the two doors side by side with one of the 3d printed doors modelled from the 1/35th scale kit. I was never happy with the handles as modelled and went back to photos of a restored vehicle to find the new versions.
Also this week I looked at some issues that need to be addressed - ordered a new drive shaft for the rear axle from Ali Express - can't say that my confidence is high on that one.
I ordered a connector cable for the lights. The existing cable connects to the pcb but when that is in place it is underneath the board, this means that I can't simply move the cab out of the way if I remove it for whatever reason. The new cable is a male-to-female which I can plug into the pcb and the current cable can plug into that. I can then disconnect the lights cable without flipping the pcb over.
The last issue was canvas for the tilt - when I get round to it.
Originally I thought I would have to butcher an old shirt, not a problem really, I have old shirts that are too big and some that are too small (I don't throw anything away) but then it occurred to me that model boat sail canvas would be a better option - so I'm looking at ordering some of that.
Thanks for looking in
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steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1459
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
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Currently laying out sheet styrene for cutting four new blanks for the third version of the doors.
On Sunday I made a new pair as there were things I wasn't happy with about the 1st replacement pair, in particular marks on the glazing. They went together well enough but still needed some fettling - just a side note, fitting doors to any vehicle - real or model - requires fettling - adjusting for fit, to make sure that the gap all around the door etc, so on the model it's to be expected.
However, I sat and looked at them and once again there were glue marks on the doors and the curves of the window openings just weren't right. They were close but not close enough. The new doors were also a little too thick for the thresholds for the cab.
So this morning the plan is to
I think this will give a better result.
Pictures when they're done.
On Sunday I made a new pair as there were things I wasn't happy with about the 1st replacement pair, in particular marks on the glazing. They went together well enough but still needed some fettling - just a side note, fitting doors to any vehicle - real or model - requires fettling - adjusting for fit, to make sure that the gap all around the door etc, so on the model it's to be expected.
However, I sat and looked at them and once again there were glue marks on the doors and the curves of the window openings just weren't right. They were close but not close enough. The new doors were also a little too thick for the thresholds for the cab.
So this morning the plan is to
- * Cut just two blanks for each door, not three.
* Make the outside blank with curves for the door opening, but cut the inner door will be a square recessed cut.
* Use double side tape to fit the windows.
I think this will give a better result.
Pictures when they're done.
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steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1459
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
So, a busy morning - officially I was waiting for a delivery, but unofficially I was putting off my chores.
Okay, pictures.
I laid out the doors as previously discussed, opting to go with 2 pieces - an inner and an outer piece, the inner piece will accommodate the glazing and eliminate the need for glue. I was concentration on accuracy in the measurements, though I still managed to mess up the layout but of that later.
The four door pieces laid out and partly cut.
Inner door pieces cut. The window aperture has been cut bigger to take the glazing - I will line the inside of the door with double sided tape to hold the glazing in place.
The window aperture cut and finally, I'm happy with the curves!
The two sets of door pieces glued together and the quarter-light bar put in place.
Some of the door mouldings done, more to do,
Showing how the glazing sits in place, all taped together to stop bits getting lost.
The delivery I was waiting for? A longer drive shaft for the rear axle. It arrived but it was actually a set of four wheel hubs not a drive shaft at all. Good old Ali Express!
Okay, pictures.
I laid out the doors as previously discussed, opting to go with 2 pieces - an inner and an outer piece, the inner piece will accommodate the glazing and eliminate the need for glue. I was concentration on accuracy in the measurements, though I still managed to mess up the layout but of that later.
The four door pieces laid out and partly cut.
Inner door pieces cut. The window aperture has been cut bigger to take the glazing - I will line the inside of the door with double sided tape to hold the glazing in place.
The window aperture cut and finally, I'm happy with the curves!
The two sets of door pieces glued together and the quarter-light bar put in place.
Some of the door mouldings done, more to do,
Showing how the glazing sits in place, all taped together to stop bits getting lost.
The delivery I was waiting for? A longer drive shaft for the rear axle. It arrived but it was actually a set of four wheel hubs not a drive shaft at all. Good old Ali Express!
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steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1459
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
ModeratorProgress to date.
The doors have had the first coats of paint on their exterior surfaces, this has been rubbed down and they'll get a coat of gloss varnish next and then another coat of the matt Olive Drab.
This crash bar has been added to the front of the cab - it's possibly/probably a little too big, but I'm not changing it.
On things like this, where it's different from the 1/35th scale model; over 52,000 Bedford QLs were made during WW2, there's going to be some variation on details like this, either in manufacture or during maintenance and repair.
The mesh grill for the front of the engine - not fixed in place yet.
One of the issues with the cab was that on the second version - the two part version - the left mudguard didn't print properly (top part of image). To fix it I cut part of the mudguard from the original version (bottom part of image) and glued and pinned that in place.
It's not a good joint being just a butt joint even with brass pins in the halves, it's come apart twice already.
The answer? I've added liners to the wheel arches made out of steel (from a coke can) and glued into place. The acrylic filler is to stop the edges from peeling upwards. Hopefully it will support the joint and protect the wheel arch when it's in use.
Thankfully this is this getting to the point where I'm looking at assembling the cab, and fitting the roof.
Thanks for looking in.
The doors have had the first coats of paint on their exterior surfaces, this has been rubbed down and they'll get a coat of gloss varnish next and then another coat of the matt Olive Drab.
This crash bar has been added to the front of the cab - it's possibly/probably a little too big, but I'm not changing it.
On things like this, where it's different from the 1/35th scale model; over 52,000 Bedford QLs were made during WW2, there's going to be some variation on details like this, either in manufacture or during maintenance and repair.
The mesh grill for the front of the engine - not fixed in place yet.
One of the issues with the cab was that on the second version - the two part version - the left mudguard didn't print properly (top part of image). To fix it I cut part of the mudguard from the original version (bottom part of image) and glued and pinned that in place.
It's not a good joint being just a butt joint even with brass pins in the halves, it's come apart twice already.
The answer? I've added liners to the wheel arches made out of steel (from a coke can) and glued into place. The acrylic filler is to stop the edges from peeling upwards. Hopefully it will support the joint and protect the wheel arch when it's in use.
Thankfully this is this getting to the point where I'm looking at assembling the cab, and fitting the roof.
Thanks for looking in.
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steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1459
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
Not a lot to update this time.
I have been pottering about working on various bits - like how I'm going to do the hoops for the tilt (and get them all the same), layout the headlights and try and figure out how exactly I'm going to fit the glazing - the double-sided sticky tape idea isn't working very well, I've done a little painting but I've had a few other things on the go.
One of those things is some little tiny orcs - Wargames Atlantic 10mm Orc Horde. Yeah, a new shiny, but you all know how weak I am. I picked them up at the Phalanx show last month, as much as to see what they were about as anything. They're very nice - very small - and I'm not killing myself to finish them.
More when I get round to them.
I have been pottering about working on various bits - like how I'm going to do the hoops for the tilt (and get them all the same), layout the headlights and try and figure out how exactly I'm going to fit the glazing - the double-sided sticky tape idea isn't working very well, I've done a little painting but I've had a few other things on the go.
One of those things is some little tiny orcs - Wargames Atlantic 10mm Orc Horde. Yeah, a new shiny, but you all know how weak I am. I picked them up at the Phalanx show last month, as much as to see what they were about as anything. They're very nice - very small - and I'm not killing myself to finish them.
More when I get round to them.
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steve_pickstock
- Posts: 1459
- Member since:
20 Jun 2010, 19:56
31 posts
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