Tutorials

Woodglue/sand bases with class 4D

Posted by Paul on 16 Jan 2010, 18:35

Found out the easy way to "transplant" this so I did.
Mr Johnson is taking woodwork today, so out with the glue and chisels!!
Is that a ruler in his pocket or is he just pleased to see us??

So, the tools of the trade.
A bottle top with , yes as usual, babybell wax, a base, a pair of scissors, a CD (this was the kelly family and worth cutting up :winky: ) and an old tin lid.

Image

.....a pot of woodglue and some sand, best is sharp sand.

Image

Stick the base on the baby bell, stick the figure on the base. Woodglue again.

Image

From the CD cut out a strip to the required shape/length. The silver backing comes off.

Image

Some sand and a bit of glue on the tin lid.....

Image

...mix to a plyable paste, not too runny and not too thick. Runny gives very flat surfaces and thick gives rough surfaces. depends what you want afterwards. I´ve tried mixing paint in at this stage to save painting it later (I said I was a lazy git), but basically....forget it, it seems to make the mixture VERY runny and dries out about 20 tones lighter than you thought it would.

Image

Then using the spatula, place around the figure.

Image

et Voila!! Let dry. This takes about an hour or so. During the drying process the mixture can be moulded, things pushed into it etc.

Image
User avatar
Paul  China

Moderator Moderator
 
Posts: 11058
Member since:
25 Nov 2008, 09:31


Posted by west1871 on 16 Jan 2010, 19:32

Cheers mate :thumbup:
Very helpful :thumbup:
User avatar
west1871  United Kingdom
 
Posts: 2225
Member since:
06 May 2009, 17:08

Posted by zzed on 17 Jan 2010, 12:26

I would like to add something here - it is very useful if you paint the base BEFORE glueing/adding anything to it. If you are planing to add sand, paint the base of the figure in that colour first (the same applies for rocky ground, red ground, snow etc.). The reason for this is that after drying of the stuff added to base, there will be some visible gaps/leftouts in areas where was glue alone applied which cannot be detected before drying and they will show parts of the base and its original colour (grey in our example here).
Afterward painting of the applied material will ruin the whole effect making it 'artificial'.

Have a try!
User avatar
zzed  
 
Posts: 1324
Member since:
30 Jun 2009, 22:49

Posted by Paul on 17 Jan 2010, 12:48

Thanks and funny you should add that. At this VERY moment I´m painting the horse in the picture!!! Synchronicity eh?
Normally I would paint the figure first, including base etc and then glue it onto the final base, but as I didn´t have a figure waiting to be based and I´d said that I would put this little walkthrough up ASP, I used an unpainted one.
If I was going to glue a figure on, ie one that had it´s base cut off (with just its feet or hooves left) then I would paint the base first.
In the original post which started me off on this run through, The guns, horse carriage are put on after the base has been painted, the horses and bods, before.
http://www.bennosfigures.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3613

here, every figure is added after the base work;

Image

and here every figure, the base done last;

Image
User avatar
Paul  China

Moderator Moderator
 
Posts: 11058
Member since:
25 Nov 2008, 09:31

Posted by T. Dürrschmidt on 17 Jan 2010, 13:45

Nice, but your bases seem quite pricy. Are these 20 Cent-coins? :shock:
User avatar
T. Dürrschmidt  Germany
 
Posts: 1957
Member since:
01 Oct 2008, 18:33

Posted by monty on 17 Jan 2010, 13:52

the blue billimen look really good thanks for the article
User avatar
monty  United Kingdom
 
Posts: 1795
Member since:
08 Aug 2009, 11:52

Help keep the forum online!
or become a supporting member

Posted by Peter on 17 Jan 2010, 14:24

Nice tutorial Paul :thumbup:
User avatar
Peter  Belgium

Moderator Moderator
 
Posts: 17917
Member since:
25 Mar 2008, 18:51

Posted by Paul on 17 Jan 2010, 15:12

T. Dürrschmidt wrote:Nice, but your bases seem quite pricy. Are these 20 Cent-coins? :shock:

Thomas, I´m a skinflint !. Using 20cent pieces would have me living under a bridge as my wife would throw me out :-) :-)
I made them from old Tchibo places matts using these tools(Ikea do similar ones) The Big one on the far right for the horse bases and the 4th from the left for the infantry bases.

Image
User avatar
Paul  China

Moderator Moderator
 
Posts: 11058
Member since:
25 Nov 2008, 09:31

Posted by Brushpunk on 19 Jan 2010, 17:00

I tried this out with some 28mm minis. Looks good so far.
Thanks for posting.
User avatar
Brushpunk  
 
Posts: 123
Member since:
24 Feb 2009, 13:27

Posted by Paul on 20 Jan 2010, 18:13

Here´s one using woodfiller, same idea as mine except a bit more expensive.
<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/TkgD99NTr7c&hl=de_DE&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/TkgD99NTr7c&hl=de_DE&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

and one using woodglue and sand, although he doesn´t mix it together before putting it on the base.

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ZHgi2AYgGYY&hl=de_DE&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ZHgi2AYgGYY&hl=de_DE&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
User avatar
Paul  China

Moderator Moderator
 
Posts: 11058
Member since:
25 Nov 2008, 09:31


Return to Tutorials