Removal of Flash

[Dunc0127]

This is how I now remove flash...I just started using this method in the last few weeks...and I find it simple, very effective (great for customising) and cheap!

I don't slice into my fingers or my thumbs anymore...so the loss of blood has been significantly reduced, which is always a good thing!

No expensive knife blades either.

I loaded a demo video to my blog and Youtube...let me what you think.

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http://osborneradloff.blogspot.com/

Best wishes to you all

Duncan

[Paul]

Nice vid I use the same method mate, but I stick a sowing needle into a wine cork (the eye end into the cork). I also have several such "implements" to put cavalry figures on whilst painting them, same thing, heat up the needle and stick the rider on the pin.

[Wheeling Turn]

Nice vid. and a cool site....

will give it a try

[franznap]

I use this method for the Hat soft plastic ones, it is the only way it works, but i' m for knife because of the precision you can reach, but of course, watch out your fingers.

[Maurice]

Yup, best way to remove those nasty mouldlines. I use a 0.5mm metal wire and a wax light

[Dunc0127]

Thanks for the tip Paul...changed to using a cork today...much much better!

Now all I have to do is paint the little buggers

[Peter]

Thanks for sharing Duncan I'll give it a try, just got my doughts if this works to for the faces

[Paul]

Thanks for sharing Duncan I'll give it a try, just got my doughts if this works to for the faces

It does, using a not very hot needle and a Magnifying glass. As each plastic is different depending on manufacturer, to judge how the Plastic reacts, I hold the needle in the candle flame for say 3 seconds (self timing/counting, not using a stop watch) then test the effect on the base of the figure. Then you can judge wether to hold it over the candle flame for a longer time or less.

[Fenton]

I use the needle and wine cork method to, though sometimes I find heating the flat of a modelling blade is useful to for some types of flash as it allows to to contact a bigger surface at once

[Paul]

Today I removed the printed insignia on an italeri french knight horse´s surcoat. This left a scratched surface which looked bloody awfull.
I considered using a hot pin......surface to big
Then I thought about using a candle flame.....surface to small...candle flame not accurate enough.
"Bugger it" I thought, as I looked at the horse through my lens, "It´ll have to do":(
Just a mo!!!!!. My lens!!!!! the sun is shining and sun + a lens........
Dug out my sunglasses went out side and lo and behold, the usual trick of concentrating the suns rays to create a fire worked absolutely perfectly!!!! By getting the right size point of light and moving it back and forwards so as not to overheat the surface, it warmed it up enough to flatten out the scratch marks!!

WARNING: YOU MUST WEAR SUNGLASSES TO DO THIS !!!!!

[Cor V.]

A true moment of genius, thanks for the tip.

[musketier]

Now that is an interesting tip Paul what did you use to remove the printed insignia? hobby knife perhaps?

[Paul]

Now that is an interesting tip Paul what did you use to remove the printed insignia? hobby knife perhaps?

My cut up razor blades

[musketier]

oh yeah I recall you saying so before, I found an Exacto type



actually works better for fine detail work than putting it in its handle.

[Paul]

That looks inteesting. I think I´ve just found another use for my old sprues

[Phersu]

"Bugger it" I thought, as I looked at the horse through my lens, "It´ll have to do":(
Just a mo!!!!!. My lens!!!!! the sun is shining and sun + a lens........
Dug out my sunglasses went out side and lo and behold, the usual trick of concentrating the suns rays to create a fire worked absolutely perfectly!!!! By getting the right size point of light and moving it back and forwards so as not to overheat the surface, it warmed it up enough to flatten out the scratch marks!!

That's a brilliant idea!
So simple and perfectly effective.
Perhaps it could work also to weld steadily some separate parts directly on the figures without glue...

I prefer scalpels for flash removal and similar stuff, but hearing about pins on corks I suppose I found a better way...

When I work with pins or other similar stuff like nails or needles (especially if heated), I hold them with a "mine lapis pen" (don't know exactly how to translate it...) I mean those pencil pens with a metal chuck on top to hold the graphite sticks inside.
Actually is like working with a pen with a pin at the top, much easier and comfortable to hold than a cork.
Pushing the back button of the pen open the chuck to adjust the length, releasing the button the point get firmly grasped.
If the pins are too thin to get grasped tight I wrap some tape or paper with glue around the pin poles to thicken them.

[Cameronian]

For light stuff I use a gadget called a pyrogravure. Bit like an electric soldering iron with a neeedle point but a lot less powerful Got mine many years ago in Brussels of all places in a model shop off the market square. Intended more for harder plastic, Historex kinda championed it as I recall.

[Fabien G]

magnifying glass + sun? you guys are really mad!!!

but all you guys (Dunc0127) tips are great!

[Paul]

magnifying glass + sun? you guys are really mad!!!

thanks

[Peter]

magnifying glass + sun? you guys are really mad!!!

thanks

No, are we? I thought this was one of the obligation to be a member of this forum