Work in Progress
Project "Deluge"
43 posts
• Page 2 of 3 • 1, 2, 3
Project "Deluge" - Poles vs Swedes in the 17th century?
-
Santi Pérez likes this post. •
- Reply
-
Kaiphranos
- Posts: 117
- Member since:
27 May 2021, 01:11
You can blame my reading the Sienkiewicz Trilogy at an impressionable age. 
Looking forward to seeing further progress and (eventually) the finished work!
Looking forward to seeing further progress and (eventually) the finished work!-
Santi Pérez likes this post. •
- Reply
-
Kaiphranos
- Posts: 117
- Member since:
27 May 2021, 01:11
In my humble opinion, Thomas, the river water now has all the appearance of real running water. Great work! 
Santi.
Santi.
-
Santi Pérez
- Posts: 2488
- Member since:
28 Aug 2016, 19:42
I really like this style of presenting your work in instalments. Keep up the good work.
donald
donald
-
Santi Pérez likes this post. •
- Reply
-
Ochoin
- Posts: 2660
- Member since:
16 Jan 2010, 04:00
Hello!
As the next step I worked on the path across the bridge and the area behind it. A few stones as well some gravel on the path improved the overall picture extremely. Materials and colours were the same as on the riverbed, additionally a sandy brown drybrushed on the path.
Then it was time for something green around the riverbed. Faller turf and afterwards some green colour variations with a brush did the job well and gives a quite realistic look.
Greetings from Austria
Thomas
As the next step I worked on the path across the bridge and the area behind it. A few stones as well some gravel on the path improved the overall picture extremely. Materials and colours were the same as on the riverbed, additionally a sandy brown drybrushed on the path.
Then it was time for something green around the riverbed. Faller turf and afterwards some green colour variations with a brush did the job well and gives a quite realistic look.
Greetings from Austria
Thomas
-
krugi3
- Posts: 123
- Member since:
06 Apr 2009, 14:29
Help keep the forum online!
or become a supporting member
Hi Krugi,
very interesting your "work in progress". Very well taught - even with the failed experiment, or just because.
I have no idea where there is a clue for "Poles vs Swedes", but I definitely adored reading Sinkievics "With fire and sword", and the result will be great I'm sure. Actually, when I think of it, there is one episode where the Poles fight the Cossack and Tartar and the latter seek cover in a kind of water-way and marsh water system.
You could add colourfull Tartars to the Dio.
Greetings
Michael
very interesting your "work in progress". Very well taught - even with the failed experiment, or just because.
I have no idea where there is a clue for "Poles vs Swedes", but I definitely adored reading Sinkievics "With fire and sword", and the result will be great I'm sure. Actually, when I think of it, there is one episode where the Poles fight the Cossack and Tartar and the latter seek cover in a kind of water-way and marsh water system.
You could add colourfull Tartars to the Dio.
Greetings
Michael
-
Michael Robert
Supporting Member (Bronze)- Posts: 890
- Member since:
14 Oct 2009, 19:22
Hello!
Now it's time for the first figures or better said horses. Wonderful beasts by Zvezda, but for a cavalry charge unfortunately too few poses.
Therefore some conversions by bending or cutting off and glueing on of the legs. Too much work is not necessary, as most of it can't be seen at the end. Small differences can make interesting effects.
Some testing with the converted horses had to be done, to ensure that the scene really works. The holes in the ground now make sense.
The fine tuning of the horses still have to be done.
Greetings from Austria
Thomas
Now it's time for the first figures or better said horses. Wonderful beasts by Zvezda, but for a cavalry charge unfortunately too few poses.
Therefore some conversions by bending or cutting off and glueing on of the legs. Too much work is not necessary, as most of it can't be seen at the end. Small differences can make interesting effects.
Some testing with the converted horses had to be done, to ensure that the scene really works. The holes in the ground now make sense.
The fine tuning of the horses still have to be done.
Greetings from Austria
Thomas
-
krugi3
- Posts: 123
- Member since:
06 Apr 2009, 14:29
Thomas, your work in progress is becoming more and more interesting and useful ! the description of the river building will be extremely useful for me when I will have the same to do (never done up to now), thanks a lot.
now waiting the rest of the project
Enrico
now waiting the rest of the project
Enrico
-
Santi Pérez likes this post. •
- Reply
-
Iceman1964
- Posts: 418
- Member since:
26 Dec 2020, 17:43
I totally agree with Enrico's opinion, Thomas. With the detailed explanation of the progress of your project and the complete photo reports you manage to hook us and make us want to see more and more. Good job! 
Santi.
Santi.
-
Santi Pérez
- Posts: 2488
- Member since:
28 Aug 2016, 19:42
Hello!
After a longer time of inactivity (too little time) I can present some further achievements.
These things I did to the horses:
1. Flash removed
2. Size of bases decreased
3. Four missing pistol grips modelled with putty
4. Two armour piercers (overlength swords) removed
5. All holes for the riders filled with putty
6. Size increased of ten ears (definitely too small)
7. Reigns bent for positions of the riders
8. Some legs bent or cut off and newly glued
9. Three heads slightly bent to the side
10. Decorations on the reigns altered (tassels, ...)
11. Small holes and gaps filled with putty
12. Smoothing of cut off parts with putty
13. Basing with Humbrol 30 for seeing still existing problem areas
And so they look after all this is done:
Greetings from Austria
Thomas
After a longer time of inactivity (too little time) I can present some further achievements.
These things I did to the horses:
1. Flash removed
2. Size of bases decreased
3. Four missing pistol grips modelled with putty
4. Two armour piercers (overlength swords) removed
5. All holes for the riders filled with putty
6. Size increased of ten ears (definitely too small)
7. Reigns bent for positions of the riders
8. Some legs bent or cut off and newly glued
9. Three heads slightly bent to the side
10. Decorations on the reigns altered (tassels, ...)
11. Small holes and gaps filled with putty
12. Smoothing of cut off parts with putty
13. Basing with Humbrol 30 for seeing still existing problem areas
And so they look after all this is done:
Greetings from Austria
Thomas
-
Santi Pérez likes this post. •
- Reply
-
krugi3
- Posts: 123
- Member since:
06 Apr 2009, 14:29
Even though the things you've done with those horses may seem minor, Thomas, they guarantee that whatever comes next will have a solid foundation and lead to a great result. Well done!
Santi.
Santi.
-
Santi Pérez
- Posts: 2488
- Member since:
28 Aug 2016, 19:42
Hello!
Today I present my way of painting a horse.
1. Priming with Humbrol 30 (any colour will do, but I prefer green or brown)
2. Vallejo 143 leatherbrown as base colour, then a wash with Vallejo 149 chocolate brown and finally highlights again with Vallejo 143 leatherbrown
3. Several layers of diluted Vallejo 169 black and Vallejo 4 offwhite for the legs
4. Saddle- and holstercloth with Vallejo 100 blackgreen as base and then Vallejo 82 medium green
5. Fringes and decoration with Vallejo 179 gun metal and afterwards Revell 90 silver
6. Saddle based with Vallejo 149 chocolate brown, then Vallejo 141 english uniform and decorations Revell 90 silver
7. Bridle and straps as in point 4, the bit with Vallejo 179 gun metal and some decorations with Vallejo 178 natural steel
8. Horsetail and mane with Vallejo 149 chocolate brown as base, wash with Vallejo 169 black and highlights again with Vallejo 149 chocolate brown
9. Pistols and holsters done with Vallejo 149 chocolate brown, Vallejo 141 english uniform, Revell 90 silver and Vallejo 169 black
10. Hooves are made with Vallejo 164 dark grey and a wash with Vallejo 169 black
And now the horse painting is finished.
Greetings from Austria
Thomas
Today I present my way of painting a horse.
1. Priming with Humbrol 30 (any colour will do, but I prefer green or brown)
2. Vallejo 143 leatherbrown as base colour, then a wash with Vallejo 149 chocolate brown and finally highlights again with Vallejo 143 leatherbrown
3. Several layers of diluted Vallejo 169 black and Vallejo 4 offwhite for the legs
4. Saddle- and holstercloth with Vallejo 100 blackgreen as base and then Vallejo 82 medium green
5. Fringes and decoration with Vallejo 179 gun metal and afterwards Revell 90 silver
6. Saddle based with Vallejo 149 chocolate brown, then Vallejo 141 english uniform and decorations Revell 90 silver
7. Bridle and straps as in point 4, the bit with Vallejo 179 gun metal and some decorations with Vallejo 178 natural steel
8. Horsetail and mane with Vallejo 149 chocolate brown as base, wash with Vallejo 169 black and highlights again with Vallejo 149 chocolate brown
9. Pistols and holsters done with Vallejo 149 chocolate brown, Vallejo 141 english uniform, Revell 90 silver and Vallejo 169 black
10. Hooves are made with Vallejo 164 dark grey and a wash with Vallejo 169 black
And now the horse painting is finished.
Greetings from Austria
Thomas
-
krugi3
- Posts: 123
- Member since:
06 Apr 2009, 14:29
-
PhilC
Supporting Member (Silver)- Posts: 744
- Member since:
11 May 2015, 18:32
PhilC wrote:Excellent method, very well explained, and the result is top!
I join Phil's congratulations, Thomas. Great job!
Santi.
-
Santi Pérez
- Posts: 2488
- Member since:
28 Aug 2016, 19:42
-
MABO
Supporting Member (Gold) 
- Posts: 9402
- Member since:
12 May 2008, 18:01
Help keep the forum online!
or become a supporting member
Hello!
And now it's time for making the base disappear ...
1. Some dirt on the horse with Vallejo 115 khaki and the base covered with a coat of acrylic dark brown.
2. To get the horse in the correct position and plane to the ground level some small sheets of paper are glued to the ground.
3. Horse glued in and gaps filled with Vallajo Ground Texture.
4. Base covered with coffeepowder and gravel (same as used for the ground).
5. Ground painted (Colours are the same as used for the already covered ground).
The base has disappeared - mission accomplished!
And after all horses have received this treatment, the diorama looks actually like this:
Greetings from Austria
Thomas
And now it's time for making the base disappear ...
1. Some dirt on the horse with Vallejo 115 khaki and the base covered with a coat of acrylic dark brown.
2. To get the horse in the correct position and plane to the ground level some small sheets of paper are glued to the ground.
3. Horse glued in and gaps filled with Vallajo Ground Texture.
4. Base covered with coffeepowder and gravel (same as used for the ground).
5. Ground painted (Colours are the same as used for the already covered ground).
The base has disappeared - mission accomplished!
And after all horses have received this treatment, the diorama looks actually like this:
Greetings from Austria
Thomas
-
krugi3
- Posts: 123
- Member since:
06 Apr 2009, 14:29
Great work Thomas, and thanks for the info about "how you make it" !
for bases I use the same concept, only if the figures are very near one another (therefore the large majority of the cases
) I put the "ground" (gypsum and sand) on the figure base before inserting it on the diorama .
Enrico
for bases I use the same concept, only if the figures are very near one another (therefore the large majority of the cases
) I put the "ground" (gypsum and sand) on the figure base before inserting it on the diorama .Enrico
-
Santi Pérez likes this post. •
- Reply
-
Iceman1964
- Posts: 418
- Member since:
26 Dec 2020, 17:43
With this mass of beautifully painted horses galloping and perfectly positioned, the diorama is already beginning to show the spectacular nature it will undoubtedly have once completed.
Go for it, Thomas!
Santi.
Go for it, Thomas!
Santi.
-
Santi Pérez
- Posts: 2488
- Member since:
28 Aug 2016, 19:42
Hello!
Every horse needs a rider and here they are (Polish winged hussars by Zvezda).
As you can see the wings are detached, also some lances and not all figures carry lances. As I need 12 riders with lances I had to make them by myself.
In reality the lances were very large (up to 6 m) but very lightweighted as they are hollow. Lance pennons are also extremely long (up to 4 m). These enourmous lances are mostly used on parades. In battle smaller versions were carried so I decided to make the lances 4,1 m (= 5,7 cm in 1/72) and the pennons 2,6 m (= 3,6 cm) - still very large and impressive.
I made the lances from 0,75 mm rods from Evergreen. The top is flattened with a plier and the basic point shaped with a knife and a grinding wheel.
The pennons are made from paper of an old writing pad. The material will be moistered for shaping in one of the following steps and this paper takes it (copy paper don't work so well).
The lance guards are rudimentary made of wire from a very old cable.
Finally putty from Vallejo will made the points and the guards smoother. Then again trimming with a knife and a grinding wheel. After covering the treated areas with a Humbrol enamel coat for better visibility of the work done (and made corrections if necessary) I am quite satisfied with the achieved results.
Greetings from Austria
Thomas
Every horse needs a rider and here they are (Polish winged hussars by Zvezda).
As you can see the wings are detached, also some lances and not all figures carry lances. As I need 12 riders with lances I had to make them by myself.
In reality the lances were very large (up to 6 m) but very lightweighted as they are hollow. Lance pennons are also extremely long (up to 4 m). These enourmous lances are mostly used on parades. In battle smaller versions were carried so I decided to make the lances 4,1 m (= 5,7 cm in 1/72) and the pennons 2,6 m (= 3,6 cm) - still very large and impressive.
I made the lances from 0,75 mm rods from Evergreen. The top is flattened with a plier and the basic point shaped with a knife and a grinding wheel.
The pennons are made from paper of an old writing pad. The material will be moistered for shaping in one of the following steps and this paper takes it (copy paper don't work so well).
The lance guards are rudimentary made of wire from a very old cable.
Finally putty from Vallejo will made the points and the guards smoother. Then again trimming with a knife and a grinding wheel. After covering the treated areas with a Humbrol enamel coat for better visibility of the work done (and made corrections if necessary) I am quite satisfied with the achieved results.
Greetings from Austria
Thomas
-
krugi3
- Posts: 123
- Member since:
06 Apr 2009, 14:29
43 posts
• Page 2 of 3 • 1, 2, 3